The ARRMA Notorious 6S BLX wants to fly. That’s the whole point of a stunt truck — the inverted wing, the wheelie bar, the aggressive stance screaming “send it.” But here’s what nobody tells you when you’re eyeing that 20-foot tabletop: the Notorious is tough out of the box, yet big air exposes every weakness in your setup. If you haven’t addressed the common failure points with proper ARRMA Notorious durability upgrades, you’re gambling with expensive repairs every single launch.
We’ve been running the Notorious hard since the original release, and the current 6S V5 BLX is genuinely the most capable version yet. That said, “capable” doesn’t mean “invincible.” After hundreds of pack cycles and more than a few spectacular crashes, we’ve dialed in exactly what needs attention before you start chasing altitude.
This checklist covers every component that matters — from the obvious stuff like shock towers to the sneaky failure points that catch even experienced bashers off guard. You’ll walk away knowing exactly what to inspect, what to upgrade, and what to leave alone. Let’s get your Notorious actually ready for the abuse you’re about to throw at it.
Understanding the Notorious 6S V5 BLX Platform
The Notorious 6S V5 BLX uses ARRMA’s proven 1/8-scale platform shared with the Kraton and Outcast, but with stunt-specific geometry that changes how it handles impacts. It weighs approximately 5.1kg (11.2 lbs) ready-to-run without battery, runs a 4074 2050Kv brushless motor, and tops out around 60+ mph on 6S power. That’s a lot of mass moving very fast through the air.
The chassis is 6061-T6 aluminum, 4mm thick, which handles most abuse without issue. The real weak points aren’t the chassis — they’re the mounting points and suspension components that absorb landing forces.
Stock suspension uses 16mm bore aluminum body shocks with composite plastic shock towers. These towers flex under heavy loads, which is actually intentional — flex absorbs energy. But there’s a threshold where flex becomes failure, and big jumps cross that line regularly.
The drivetrain runs a center diff with front and rear limited-slip differentials. Gear mesh is set at the factory, but landing impacts can shift motor mount positions slightly over time, causing premature gear wear. This is something most people never check until they hear grinding.
→ ARRMA Notorious 6S BLX — the V5 version includes updated electronics and improved shock geometry over earlier generations, making it the best starting point for serious stunt work.
The inverted wing and rear wheelie bar define the Notorious’s character. The wing actually provides meaningful downforce at speed, which helps with stability on run-ups. The wheelie bar prevents backflips during hard acceleration but takes significant abuse during nose-down landings.
Ground clearance sits around 76mm (3 inches), which is generous for a stunt truck. The problem isn’t clearance — it’s that the low center of gravity that makes the Notorious stable also means the chassis takes direct hits on flat landings.
The Pre-Flight Inspection Checklist
Before every session involving serious air, run through this inspection sequence. It takes five minutes and prevents session-ending failures. We’ve learned this the hard way — skipping checks because “it was fine last time” is how you end up carrying pieces home in your pockets.
Shock tower mounting screws: Check all four screws on each tower. The front tower takes more abuse on nose-heavy landings. Use blue threadlocker on these — they vibrate loose faster than almost any other fastener on the truck.
Shock shaft condition: Extend each shock fully and inspect the shaft for scoring or bending. Even a slight bend causes seal damage and oil leakage. Replacement shafts are cheap; running damaged ones destroys the shock body.
Shock oil level: Press down on each corner. Shocks should rebound smoothly and evenly. If one corner feels softer or rebounds slower, you’ve lost oil. Top off or rebuild before jumping.
Body post integrity: Flex each post by hand. Stock nylon posts develop stress fractures that aren’t visible until they snap mid-air. If a post has taken a hard hit, replace it preemptively.
Wing mount screws: The rear wing takes massive forces on backflip landings. Loose wing mounts let the wing shift, changing aerodynamics unpredictably. Snug these down but don’t overtorque — stripped threads are worse than loose screws.
Wheel nut tightness: Spin each wheel and listen for bearing noise. Then verify the 17mm wheel nuts are secure. A wheel coming off mid-jump creates an uncontrollable rotation that usually ends badly.
Servo saver tension: Turn the wheels lock-to-lock. The servo saver should provide slight resistance but not slip under normal steering forces. Too loose means inconsistent steering; too tight means you’ll strip the servo on hard impacts.
Battery tray straps: Verify the velcro straps are in good condition and batteries are completely immobile. A shifting battery during flight changes the center of gravity at the worst possible moment.
Shock Tower Upgrades: The Most Critical Modification
Aluminum shock tower braces are the single most important ARRMA Notorious durability upgrade for jump-focused driving. Stock composite towers flex progressively until they crack — usually at the shock mounting holes where stress concentrates. We’ve broken three stock front towers in testing, all from flat landings where the nose hit first.
The upgrade path here is straightforward: add aluminum braces that reinforce the stock towers, or replace the towers entirely with CNC aluminum units. Braces are cheaper and maintain some flex (which isn’t entirely bad). Full aluminum towers are stronger but transfer more impact force to the chassis.
→ Aluminum Shock Tower Brace — these bolt-on braces add rigidity to stock towers without completely eliminating flex, striking a good balance between strength and impact absorption.
When installing tower braces, torque the screws evenly in a cross pattern. Uneven tension creates stress points that can crack the brace itself. Use blue threadlocker on every fastener — these see constant vibration.
Full aluminum tower replacements run $40-60 per tower. They’re worth it if you’ve already broken stock towers twice, but they do change the truck’s handling slightly. More rigidity means sharper response but also harsher landings transmitted to other components.
One thing we’ve noticed: aluminum towers make shock tuning more critical. With flex removed from the equation, your shock oil weight and spring preload become the only variables absorbing landing energy. If you upgrade towers, plan to experiment with shock setup.
Body Post Reinforcement: Preventing the Most Common Failure
Stock nylon body posts snap constantly on the Notorious. This isn’t a design flaw — it’s intentional. The posts are meant to break before transmitting force to the chassis. But when you’re mid-session and suddenly your body is flopping around, “intentional sacrifice component” doesn’t feel like good design.
Heavy-duty aluminum body posts solve this completely. They’re one of the cheapest upgrades ($15-25 for a full set) with the highest impact on reliability. We haven’t broken an aluminum post in over two years of aggressive bashing.
→ Heavy Duty Body Posts — aluminum posts with captured body clip design eliminate the weakest link in the Notorious’s body mounting system.
Installation requires removing the stock posts (two screws each) and threading in the aluminum replacements. Match the height exactly — posts that are too tall create leverage that cracks the body around the mounting holes.
Some aluminum posts use captured body clips instead of traditional clips. These are worth the extra few dollars. Standard body clips launch into oblivion on hard landings; captured designs keep everything together.
One consideration: aluminum posts don’t absorb impact like nylon. If you’re landing on pavement regularly, the force has to go somewhere — usually into the body shell. Expect slightly faster body wear with aluminum posts. That’s an acceptable tradeoff for not losing your body mid-session.
Battery Security: The Overlooked Safety Issue
A loose battery during flight is genuinely dangerous. LiPo batteries don’t like being ejected from moving vehicles at 40+ mph. Beyond the fire risk, a shifting battery changes your truck’s center of gravity mid-air, making controlled landings nearly impossible.
The Notorious uses a dual-battery tray with velcro straps. Stock straps work fine when new but degrade quickly — dirt contamination reduces velcro grip, and the straps stretch over time. Inspect them before every session and replace at the first sign of weakness.
Hardcase batteries are mandatory for jump-focused driving. Soft-pack LiPos can puncture on hard landings or debris impacts. A punctured LiPo is a fire. Hardcase batteries add weight but contain the cells in a rigid shell that survives abuse.
→ 6S LiPo Battery Hardcase — 5200mAh hardcase packs provide solid runtime and survive the impacts that destroy soft-pack batteries in stunt applications.
Battery positioning affects flight characteristics. The Notorious is designed with batteries centered for neutral balance. If you’re running a single battery (3S setup), position it as close to center as possible. Off-center weight creates rotation tendencies that fight your control inputs.
For 6S operation, use matched batteries from the same manufacturer and batch if possible. Mismatched batteries can have different internal resistances, causing uneven discharge and potential issues. This matters more for longevity than immediate safety, but it’s worth considering.
Check your battery leads routing. Leads that can shift during flight might contact hot motor components or get pinched in moving parts. Secure them with velcro straps or zip ties (leaving slack for suspension travel).
Drivetrain Inspection and Maintenance
The Notorious drivetrain is robust, but landing impacts stress components in ways normal driving doesn’t. The center diff takes rotational shock loads when wheels suddenly stop (ground contact) while the motor keeps spinning. Diff gears can chip or strip under these conditions.
Check diff action by holding one wheel and spinning the opposite wheel on the same axle. Smooth, consistent resistance means healthy diff gears. Grinding, clicking, or inconsistent resistance indicates damage. Rebuild or replace before it fails completely.
Motor mesh is critical and often overlooked. The pinion and spur gear should have a paper-thin gap — just enough that a piece of notebook paper slides through with slight resistance. Too tight causes excessive wear and heat; too loose causes gear skipping under load.
Landing impacts can shift the motor mount position slightly, changing mesh over time. After every few sessions, verify mesh is still correct. This is also a good time to inspect the spur gear for chips or worn teeth.
The Notorious runs a 17T pinion with a 46T spur gear stock, giving a final drive ratio around 10.73:1. This gearing is aggressive — great for acceleration and wheelies, but it puts significant stress on drivetrain components. Some bashers run a 15T pinion for slightly lower stress at the cost of top speed.
If you’re hearing drivetrain noise, isolate it before assuming the worst. Remove the body and run the truck on a stand. Motor noise is high-pitched whine. Diff noise is lower, grinding. Bearing noise is usually a rhythmic clicking that matches wheel rotation.
Suspension Tuning for Jump Landings
Stock shock oil weight on the Notorious is around 30wt. This works for general bashing but may be too soft for repeated big jump landings. Heavier oil (35-40wt) slows compression, preventing bottoming out on hard impacts.
The tradeoff is reduced suspension compliance on rough terrain. If you’re hitting jumps on a smooth run-up, heavier oil is pure benefit. If your approach is rough dirt with bumps, you need the suspension to absorb those irregularities too.
Spring preload adjustment is your quick-tune option. More preload (screwing the collar down) raises ride height and stiffens initial compression. This helps prevent bottoming but makes the truck feel harsher on small bumps.
For dedicated jump sessions, we run 35wt oil with moderate preload — about 2-3mm of visible thread above the collar. This setup handles 15-20 foot jumps consistently without bottoming while still absorbing rough run-up terrain.
Shock rebound matters for landing stability. If rebound is too fast, the truck bounces unpredictably after touchdown. Too slow, and the suspension doesn’t reset before your next input. Stock rebound is generally acceptable, but worn shocks lose rebound damping as the seals degrade.
Consider carrying spare shock oil and a rebuild kit to the field. Shock failures are common enough that being able to do a quick rebuild keeps your session alive. The Notorious shocks are simple to service — four screws, swap oil, reassemble.
Steering and Servo Protection
The stock servo on the Notorious is adequate for normal driving but vulnerable to impact damage. When the front wheels hit an obstacle mid-air or on landing, the force transmits directly through the steering linkage to the servo. The servo saver helps, but it can only absorb so much.
Upgrading to a high-torque servo (25kg+ rating) improves steering response and provides more resistance to impact damage. Metal gear servos survive hits that strip plastic gears instantly. Budget $40-80 for a quality replacement.
Steering linkage inspection is part of the pre-flight checklist. Turnbuckles should spin freely without binding. Ball joints should have no play — worn ball joints cause vague steering and can pop apart on impact.
The servo saver tension setting matters more for jump driving than normal bashing. Too loose, and steering feels unresponsive. Too tight, and impact forces go straight to the servo. Find the middle ground where steering feels direct but the saver still slips under hard impacts.
If you’re consistently breaking steering components, consider a steering guard or bumper that deflects impacts away from the linkage. These add weight but prevent expensive repairs.
Essential Tools for Field Repairs
Carrying the right tools means the difference between a quick fix and a session-ending failure. The Notorious uses metric hex fasteners throughout — 2mm, 2.5mm, and 3mm cover almost everything.
→ RC Hex Driver Set — magnetic tips prevent dropped screws in the field, and proper drivers reduce the stripped fastener frustration that comes with cheap tools.
Beyond hex drivers, carry needle-nose pliers, a small adjustable wrench for 17mm wheel nuts, and a multi-tool with scissors (for trimming damaged body material). Zip ties solve half of all field problems temporarily.
Spare parts to keep in your bag: body clips, wheel nuts, shock shaft retaining clips, and a few common screws. Losing a $0.50 part shouldn’t end your day.
Blue threadlocker lives in the field bag permanently. Screws that vibrate loose get a drop before reinstallation. Don’t use red threadlocker unless you want permanent assembly — blue is removable with hand tools.
Similar to how we discussed Typhon setup for dirt driving, having the right tools and knowing your truck’s weak points transforms frustrating sessions into productive ones.
Common Failure Points and Prevention
After years of running the Notorious, certain failures repeat consistently. Knowing these in advance lets you address them before they strand you.
Front A-arms: The lower front A-arms take enormous stress on nose-down landings. Stock arms are reasonably tough, but repeated impacts cause stress fractures near the hinge pin holes. Inspect for hairline cracks regularly. RPM makes heavy-duty replacements that outlast stock significantly.
Hinge pins: These 4mm steel pins hold the A-arms to the chassis. They can bend on hard side impacts, causing binding and uneven suspension travel. Carry spares — they’re cheap and easy to swap.
Wheel hexes: The 17mm hexes that connect wheels to axles wear over time. Worn hexes cause wheel wobble and eventual stripping. Aluminum hexes last longer but can damage the axle splines if over-tightened.
Wing mounts: The rear wing takes abuse that the mounting points weren’t really designed for. The plastic mounts crack; aluminum replacements exist but are harder to find. Some bashers run without the wing entirely for durability, accepting the handling change.
Wheelie bar wheels: These small wheels contact the ground frequently during wheelies and backflip landings. They wear quickly and eventually seize. Replace them before they lock up and create drag.
The Kraton and Outcast share many components with the Notorious, so parts availability is excellent. Cross-reference part numbers when shopping — you might find better deals on “Kraton” labeled parts that fit identically.
Terrain-Specific Considerations
Where you’re jumping affects what fails and how to prepare. Dirt, pavement, and grass each present different challenges.
Dirt jumps: Loose dirt run-ups cause wheel spin that affects launch angle. Lower your throttle approach speed and let momentum carry you. Dirt landings are forgiving but hide rocks that damage A-arms and chassis. After dirt sessions, clean the truck thoroughly — dirt in bearings accelerates wear dramatically.
Pavement jumps: Hard surfaces mean perfect traction on launch but brutal landings. Shock oil weight matters most here — too soft and you’ll bottom out every time. Pavement also destroys body shells faster than any other surface. Consider a dedicated “pavement body” you don’t mind sacrificing.
Grass landings: Grass hides terrain variations that cause unexpected rotations. What looks flat might have a dip that catches one wheel first, sending the truck cartwheeling. Scout your landing zone before sending it. Wet grass reduces traction significantly — adjust your run-up speed accordingly.
Skate parks: Concrete transitions are ideal for controlled air. The smooth surfaces and predictable angles let you focus on technique rather than terrain variables. However, concrete is unforgiving on crashes — expect faster body and tire wear.
Temperature affects battery performance and tire grip. Cold batteries deliver less punch; cold tires have less traction. In winter sessions, keep batteries warm until you’re ready to run, and expect the first few runs to feel sluggish until everything warms up.
The Complete Pre-Jump Durability Checklist
Print this and keep it in your field bag. Run through it before every jump session.
| Component | Check | Action if Failed |
|---|---|---|
| Shock towers | No cracks, screws tight | Replace or add braces |
| Shock shafts | No bends, smooth action | Replace shaft or rebuild |
| Shock oil | Even rebound all corners | Top off or rebuild |
| Body posts | No stress fractures | Replace with aluminum |
| Wing mounts | Secure, no cracks | Tighten or replace |
| Battery straps | Strong velcro grip | Replace straps |
| Wheel nuts | 17mm nuts secure | Tighten with wrench |
| Servo saver | Appropriate tension | Adjust or replace |
| Steering linkage | No play in joints | Replace worn components |
| Motor mesh | Paper-thin gap | Adjust motor position |
Budget Breakdown for Essential Upgrades
Not everyone can upgrade everything at once. Here’s the priority order based on failure frequency and cost-effectiveness:
Priority 1 ($15-25): Aluminum body posts. Cheapest upgrade with the highest impact on reliability. Do this first.
Priority 2 ($25-40): Shock tower braces. Front tower especially. This prevents the most common structural failure.
Priority 3 ($50-80): Hardcase batteries if you’re still running soft packs. Safety upgrade that also improves durability.
Priority 4 ($40-80): High-torque metal gear servo. Improves steering response and survives impacts that kill stock servos.
Priority 5 ($20-30): RPM A-arms. Only if you’ve broken stock arms. They’re tough enough for most users.
Total budget for comprehensive upgrades: $150-250. That sounds like a lot until you price out replacing a motor ($80+), ESC ($150+), or chassis ($60+) after a preventable failure.
In 2026, prices have stabilized after the supply chain chaos of previous years. Most upgrades are readily available from multiple vendors. Shop around — Amazon, AMain, Horizon Hobby, and direct from manufacturers often have different pricing on identical parts.
Frequently Asked Questions
What breaks first on the ARRMA Notorious during big jumps?
Body posts and shock towers fail most frequently on hard landings. Stock nylon body posts snap from impact stress, while composite shock towers crack at the mounting holes. Aluminum replacements for both components cost under $50 total and eliminate these common failures almost entirely.
Is the Notorious 6S durable enough for big air without upgrades?
The stock Notorious handles moderate jumps well but struggles with repeated hard landings over 15 feet. The chassis and drivetrain are solid, but suspension mounting points and body hardware are designed as sacrifice components. Basic upgrades extend durability significantly for aggressive jumping.
What shock oil weight should I use for jump-focused driving?
Start with 35wt oil for dedicated jump sessions, up from the stock 30wt. Heavier oil prevents bottoming on hard landings while still allowing enough suspension travel for rough approaches. Adjust based on your specific jump heights and landing surfaces.
How often should I inspect the Notorious before jumping sessions?
Run through the full checklist before every session involving significant air. Quick visual inspections take under five minutes and catch loose fasteners, cracked components, and worn parts before they cause session-ending failures or expensive cascading damage.
Can I use Kraton or Outcast parts on the Notorious?
Yes, the Notorious shares the 1/8-scale platform with the Kraton and Outcast. Shock towers, A-arms, differentials, and most drivetrain components interchange directly. Cross-reference part numbers when shopping to find the best prices across all three model lines.
Do aluminum shock towers make the Notorious handle worse?
Full aluminum towers reduce flex, which changes handling characteristics slightly. Steering feels sharper but landings transmit more force to other components. Aluminum braces on stock towers offer a middle ground, adding strength while maintaining some beneficial flex.
What’s the maximum safe jump height for a stock Notorious?
Stock trucks handle 10-15 foot jumps consistently with proper landing technique. Beyond that, component stress increases exponentially. There’s no hard limit, but expect accelerated wear and occasional failures above 15 feet without durability upgrades installed.
Final Verdict
The ARRMA Notorious 6S V5 BLX is genuinely one of the best platforms for stunt driving in the 1/8-scale market. The combination of power, stability, and purpose-built geometry makes big air accessible and repeatable. But “capable” and “indestructible” aren’t the same thing, and the Notorious needs targeted ARRMA Notorious durability upgrades to survive the abuse it’s designed to invite.
The essential upgrades are clear: aluminum body posts, shock tower braces, hardcase batteries, and proper tools. This package runs $80-120 and prevents failures that cost twice that to repair. It’s not optional equipment for serious jump driving — it’s the minimum viable setup.
Beyond the hardware, the inspection checklist matters as much as the upgrades themselves. Components that were fine last week might have developed stress fractures you can’t see. Five minutes of checking before you send it saves hours of frustration and expensive parts orders.
We’ve run the Notorious through hundreds of jump sessions across dirt, pavement, and grass. The truck rewards preparation and punishes neglect. Treat it like the precision machine it is — maintain it properly, upgrade the known weak points, and it’ll deliver the spectacular stunt performance that made you want it in the first place.
If you’re coming from smaller platforms like the Granite, the Notorious is a significant step up in capability and maintenance requirements. The investment in time and upgrades pays off in reliability and performance that smaller trucks simply can’t match.
Get the upgrades installed, run through the checklist, and go send it. The Notorious was built for exactly this.
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