Kraton 6S suspension tuning toe-in adjustments can transform your truck from a twitchy mess into a planted, predictable basher. If your Kraton wanders at speed, washes out in corners, or feels unstable after big landings, the rear toe geometry is almost always the culprit. This guide covers exactly how to dial in your rear toe-in, adjust your shocks, and tune your suspension for the handling characteristics you actually want.
Whether you’re running the EXB or BLX version, the principles here apply to both platforms. We’ve spent years tuning these trucks across dirt, gravel, pavement, and everything in between. By the end of this article, you’ll understand not just how to adjust toe-in, but why specific settings work for specific conditions, and how the entire rear suspension system works together to create stable, controllable handling.
Understanding Rear Toe-In on the Kraton 6S Platform
Rear toe-in refers to the angle at which the rear wheels point inward toward the chassis centerline when viewed from above. On the Kraton 6S, this angle is controlled by the rear suspension geometry, specifically the rear hinge pin brace mounting position and the length of the rear camber links.
The Kraton 6S V5 BLX and EXB both use a similar rear suspension layout with aluminum hinge pin braces, composite A-arms, and adjustable turnbuckle-style camber links. Stock toe-in from the factory sits around 2 to 3 degrees, which ARRMA calibrated for general bashing use. This setting works reasonably well for backyard jumps and parking lot runs, but it’s a compromise.
Here’s the thing: toe-in directly affects how the rear end behaves under throttle, during cornering, and on landing. More toe-in creates a “wedge” effect that pushes the rear tires outward under acceleration, increasing rear grip and straight-line stability. Less toe-in allows the rear to rotate more freely, which feels more agile but can lead to oversteer or fishtailing at speed.
The Kraton 6S weighs approximately 5.3 kg (11.7 lbs) ready to run with a 6S LiPo installed. That’s a lot of mass moving at 50+ mph. Small geometry changes have outsized effects at these speeds. A 2-degree toe-in change might feel subtle in the driveway, but it’s night and day on a high-speed dirt run.
Both the BLX and EXB share the same basic suspension architecture, but the EXB comes with heavier-duty components including roller bearings in the differentials and upgraded shock internals. The EXB’s suspension is slightly stiffer from the factory, which interacts with toe-in settings differently than the softer BLX setup. We’ll cover those differences throughout this guide.
→ ARRMA Kraton 6S BLX, the standard platform that most bashers start with, featuring the Spektrum Firma 150A ESC and 2050Kv brushless motor.
The EXB vs BLX Suspension Differences That Affect Tuning
The EXB (Extreme Bash) version uses thicker shock shafts, higher-volume shock bodies, and stiffer spring rates compared to the BLX. These differences mean identical toe-in settings will feel different between the two trucks.
On the BLX, the softer suspension allows more chassis roll during cornering. This roll changes the effective toe angle dynamically as the truck leans. A BLX set at 3 degrees static toe-in might effectively run closer to 2 degrees through a corner because the suspension compresses unevenly. The EXB’s stiffer setup maintains more consistent geometry throughout the suspension travel.
The EXB’s rear shock towers are also reinforced, which prevents flex that can introduce unpredictable toe changes under load. If you’ve ever noticed your Kraton feeling “loose” or inconsistent after a hard landing, shock tower flex might be contributing. The EXB addresses this with thicker material and additional bracing.
For the BLX, upgrading to aluminum shock towers is a common modification that improves tuning consistency. The stock composite towers aren’t bad, but they do flex under extreme loads. This flex essentially randomizes your carefully set toe-in angles during aggressive driving.
The EXB also includes adjustable turnbuckles with finer threads, allowing more precise camber and toe adjustments. The BLX turnbuckles work fine, but the coarser threads mean each half-turn produces a larger geometry change. If you’re chasing specific handling characteristics, the EXB’s hardware gives you more granular control.
→ ARRMA Kraton 6S EXB, the upgraded platform with reinforced chassis, roller diff bearings, and heavy-duty suspension components for extreme bashing.
How to Measure and Adjust Rear Toe-In Step by Step
Measuring toe-in accurately requires a flat surface, a ruler or calipers, and patience. Here’s the process we use in our shop.
First, place the Kraton on a flat, level surface. The suspension should be at ride height, meaning the truck is resting on its wheels with no external pressure. Remove any battery if you want to measure the unloaded geometry, or install your typical 6S pack if you want to measure loaded geometry. Both measurements are useful.
Mark the front and rear edges of both rear tires at hub height using a fine-tip marker. These marks should be at the exact centerline of each tire, at the same height on both sides. Precision here matters.
Measure the distance between the front marks (the front of the tires at hub height) and record it. Then measure the distance between the rear marks. On a properly set Kraton, the front measurement should be smaller than the rear measurement. This difference indicates toe-in.
For example, if the front measurement is 245mm and the rear measurement is 250mm, you have 5mm of toe-in across the rear axle. To convert this to degrees, divide the difference by the distance between your measurement points (typically around 100mm for most tires), then use the arctangent function. Or just use an online toe calculator.
Most bashers don’t need exact degree measurements. A 5mm difference equals roughly 3 degrees of toe-in on the Kraton’s wheelbase. A 3mm difference is closer to 2 degrees. An 8mm difference pushes you toward 5 degrees.
To adjust toe-in, locate the rear camber links. These are the turnbuckle-style rods connecting the rear hub carriers to the rear shock tower or chassis. Lengthening these links increases toe-in. Shortening them reduces toe-in.
Each link has a threaded rod with ball ends. Loosen the set screws or lock nuts, then rotate the rod to lengthen or shorten it. One full turn typically changes the link length by about 1mm, which translates to roughly 0.5 degrees of toe change. Always adjust both sides equally unless you’re intentionally setting asymmetric toe for oval track use.
After adjustment, re-measure to confirm your new settings. Then take the truck out and evaluate the handling before making further changes. Small adjustments compound, so resist the urge to change multiple things at once.
Toe-In Settings for Different Terrain Types
Different surfaces demand different toe-in settings. Here’s what we’ve found works best across various terrains.
For loose dirt and gravel, 4 to 5 degrees of rear toe-in provides the most stability. The increased rear grip helps prevent the truck from swapping ends when you hit throttle on low-traction surfaces. This setting also improves landing stability on dirt jumps because the rear tires “dig in” more aggressively.
On pavement and hard-packed surfaces, you can run less toe-in, around 2 to 3 degrees. The high-grip surface provides natural rear traction, so you don’t need the geometry doing as much work. Lower toe-in also reduces tire scrub, which extends tire life and slightly increases top speed.
For mixed terrain bashing where you’re transitioning between surfaces constantly, 3 to 4 degrees is the sweet spot. This setting compromises between stability and agility, working reasonably well everywhere without excelling anywhere.
If you’re running a dedicated speed setup, like chasing 60+ mph runs on smooth pavement, consider reducing toe-in to 1 to 2 degrees. This minimizes rolling resistance and allows the truck to track straighter. That said, this setup feels twitchy at low speeds and requires precise steering input.
Backyard jumps and skate park sessions benefit from higher toe-in, around 4 degrees. The Kraton lands hard, and that 5.3 kg of mass needs rear stability to prevent the truck from veering sideways on touchdown. Higher toe-in also helps the truck track straight during the takeoff phase, reducing the chance of crooked launches.
Shock Setup and How It Interacts with Toe Geometry
Toe-in doesn’t exist in isolation. Your shock setup dramatically affects how toe settings translate to real-world handling. A stiff rear shock setup amplifies toe-in effects, while a soft setup mutes them.
The Kraton 6S uses 16mm bore shocks with 5mm shafts on the BLX and 5.5mm shafts on the EXB. Stock oil weight is typically 30wt to 35wt, depending on the production run. This produces a medium-soft damping feel that works for general use but can feel underdamped during aggressive driving.
If your Kraton feels unstable despite correct toe-in settings, the shocks might be the issue. Underdamped shocks allow the suspension to oscillate after bumps, which constantly changes your effective toe angle. Increasing oil weight to 40wt or 45wt calms this oscillation and makes toe settings more consistent.
Spring preload also matters. More preload raises ride height and changes the suspension geometry at rest. On the Kraton, adding preload to the rear shocks increases the static toe-in angle slightly because of the suspension’s geometry. If you’ve cranked up rear preload for jump landings, you might have inadvertently added a degree of toe-in.
Shock mounting position affects leverage ratios. The Kraton’s rear shocks have multiple mounting holes on both the tower and the A-arm. Moving the lower shock mount inward (toward the chassis) increases shock leverage, making the suspension feel stiffer without changing springs or oil. This also changes how the suspension geometry moves through its travel, which affects dynamic toe angles.
For most bashers, we recommend starting with 35wt oil, stock springs, and middle-hole shock mounting positions. Get your toe-in dialed first, then adjust shock settings if needed. Changing too many variables at once makes it impossible to isolate what’s actually affecting handling.
Common Toe-In Problems and How to Diagnose Them
Several symptoms indicate toe-in issues. Learning to read these symptoms saves hours of trial-and-error tuning.
If your Kraton wanders at high speed, requiring constant steering corrections to maintain a straight line, you likely have too little toe-in or asymmetric toe between the left and right sides. The rear end isn’t stable enough to track straight, so small disturbances cause the truck to veer.
Fishtailing under acceleration, especially on loose surfaces, also indicates insufficient toe-in. The rear tires aren’t generating enough lateral grip to keep the rear end planted. Increase toe-in by 1 to 2 degrees and retest.
If the truck feels “stuck” in corners and won’t rotate, you probably have too much toe-in. The rear end grips so hard that it resists turning. This feels safe but slow. Reduce toe-in by 1 degree and see if corner entry improves.
Uneven tire wear on the rear tires indicates a toe problem. If the inside edges wear faster than the outside edges, you have excessive toe-in. If the outside edges wear faster, you have toe-out, which is rarely intentional on a basher.
If the truck pulls to one side under braking or acceleration, you have asymmetric toe. One rear wheel is pointed differently than the other. This happens when turnbuckles loosen during crashes or when one A-arm gets bent. Measure both sides independently and correct as needed.
Bent suspension components are more common than most people realize. A hard side impact can bend an A-arm or hub carrier without obviously breaking it. Even a 2mm bend changes geometry significantly. If your toe settings won’t stay consistent, inspect all rear suspension parts for straightness.
Steering Response and the Front-to-Rear Balance
Rear toe-in affects steering response even though it’s a rear geometry setting. The front and rear of the truck work as a system, and changing the rear balance affects how the front feels.
More rear toe-in creates understeer tendency. The rear grips harder, so the front has to work harder to initiate turns. This feels stable but can make the truck feel “pushy” or unresponsive to steering input.
Less rear toe-in creates oversteer tendency. The rear rotates more easily, so the front doesn’t have to work as hard. This feels agile but can lead to snap oversteer if you lift off the throttle mid-corner.
If you’ve increased rear toe-in for stability and now find the steering feels dead, you might need to adjust front geometry to compensate. Adding front camber (negative camber specifically) increases front grip and counteracts the understeer from high rear toe-in.
The stock Kraton front camber is around negative 1 to 2 degrees. Increasing this to negative 3 or 4 degrees sharpens turn-in without sacrificing rear stability. The front camber links adjust the same way as the rear links, using the turnbuckle mechanism.
Your steering servo also plays a role in perceived response. A sluggish servo makes the truck feel unresponsive regardless of geometry settings. The stock Spektrum servo in the BLX is adequate but not impressive. Upgrading to a high-torque metal gear servo improves steering feel and allows geometry changes to translate more directly to handling changes.
→ Metal Gear Servo, a high-torque servo upgrade improves steering response and durability, making your suspension tuning changes more noticeable.
Weight Distribution and Battery Placement Effects
Where you mount your battery affects suspension loading, which in turn affects how toe-in settings perform. The Kraton 6S uses a center-mounted battery tray, but different battery sizes shift weight slightly forward or backward.
A longer 6S pack that extends toward the rear shifts weight rearward, loading the rear suspension more heavily. This compresses the rear shocks at rest, which changes the static toe angle. It also increases rear traction, which can make high toe-in settings feel excessive.
A shorter, more compact pack centered in the tray produces more neutral weight distribution. This is generally preferable for balanced handling. The Kraton’s stock weight distribution is approximately 48% front, 52% rear with a centered battery.
If you’re running a heavy 5000mAh or 6000mAh 6S pack, the added weight (typically 700g to 900g) affects suspension dynamics. Stiffer springs or higher preload might be necessary to maintain proper ride height. If you increase rear preload to compensate for battery weight, remember that this also increases static toe-in slightly.
→ 6S LiPo Battery, a quality 5000mAh 6S pack provides the power the Kraton needs while maintaining reasonable weight distribution.
Battery condition also matters indirectly. A healthy, balanced pack delivers consistent power, which means consistent throttle response. An unbalanced pack with voltage sag delivers inconsistent power, which makes handling feel unpredictable. Keep your packs healthy with a quality balance charger.
→ LiPo Balance Charger, proper charging extends battery life and ensures consistent power delivery for predictable handling.
Drivetrain Considerations: Diff Setup and Toe Interaction
The rear differential affects how toe-in settings translate to handling. A locked or tight diff amplifies toe-in effects, while a loose diff mutes them.
The Kraton 6S uses a center diff and rear diff in series. The rear diff controls how power splits between the left and right rear wheels. Stock diff fluid is typically 100K to 200K weight, producing a semi-locked feel that works for bashing.
Thicker rear diff fluid (300K to 500K) creates more of a locked-diff effect. This increases straight-line stability but makes the truck harder to turn. Combined with high toe-in, a thick rear diff can make the Kraton feel like it’s on rails, which is great for speed runs but frustrating for technical driving.
Thinner rear diff fluid (50K to 100K) allows more wheel speed differentiation, which helps the truck rotate in corners. This pairs well with moderate toe-in settings for balanced handling. If you’ve reduced toe-in for agility but find the truck still won’t turn, try thinner rear diff oil.
The center diff also matters. A tighter center diff (thicker fluid) sends more power to the front, which can induce understeer. A looser center diff sends more power to the rear, which can induce oversteer. These effects interact with your rear toe settings in complex ways.
For detailed diff tuning and bulletproofing information, check out our ARRMA differential bulletproofing guide which covers the Kraton and Typhon platforms in depth.
Recommended Baseline Settings for 2026
After years of tuning Kratons across both platforms, here are our recommended starting points for 2026.
For general bashing on mixed terrain, set rear toe-in to 3.5 degrees. Use 35wt shock oil with stock springs. Mount shocks in the middle holes. This produces a balanced truck that handles reasonably well everywhere.
For dirt and loose surface focus, increase toe-in to 4.5 degrees. Consider 40wt shock oil for better landing control. This setup prioritizes stability over agility.
For pavement and speed runs, reduce toe-in to 2 degrees. Use 30wt shock oil for a more responsive feel. This setup is twitchier but faster.
For big air and skate park use, set toe-in to 4 degrees with 45wt shock oil. Add rear spring preload if needed to prevent bottoming. This setup handles hard landings without the rear stepping out.
The EXB can generally run slightly less toe-in than the BLX for equivalent stability because of its stiffer suspension. If a BLX needs 4 degrees for a given condition, the EXB might achieve similar stability at 3.5 degrees.
Tools and Parts You’ll Need
Proper suspension tuning requires a few specific tools. Invest in these once, and they’ll serve you for years.
A quality hex driver set in 1.5mm, 2mm, 2.5mm, and 3mm sizes covers most ARRMA hardware. Ball-end hex drivers make working in tight spaces easier. Avoid cheap hex drivers that strip easily.
Turnbuckle wrenches sized for your specific links speed up adjustments. The Kraton uses 5.5mm turnbuckle flats on most links. A dedicated wrench prevents rounding the flats.
Digital calipers accurate to 0.1mm allow precise measurements. Analog calipers work but are harder to read consistently. A 150mm caliper handles all Kraton measurements.
A setup board or flat surface is essential for accurate measurements. Granite countertop, glass table, or a dedicated RC setup board all work. Warped surfaces produce inaccurate readings.
Shock rebuild tools including shock pliers and a shock stand make oil changes and rebuilds much easier. If you’re tuning shock oil weight, you’ll be rebuilding shocks regularly.
Thread lock (blue Loctite or equivalent) prevents turnbuckles from loosening during use. Apply sparingly to the set screws after final adjustment.
Side-by-Side Specs: Kraton 6S BLX vs EXB Suspension
| Feature | Kraton 6S V5 BLX | Kraton 6S EXB |
|---|---|---|
| Shock Bore | 16mm | 16mm |
| Shock Shaft Diameter | 5mm | 5.5mm |
| Stock Shock Oil | 30-35wt | 35-40wt |
| Shock Towers | Composite | Aluminum reinforced |
| A-Arm Material | Composite | Composite (HD) |
| Turnbuckle Thread Pitch | Standard | Fine thread |
| Hinge Pin Braces | Aluminum | Aluminum (thicker) |
| Stock Toe-In | 2-3 degrees | 2-3 degrees |
| Ready-to-Run Weight | 5.3 kg | 5.4 kg (roller) |
| Wheelbase | 390mm | 390mm |
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the stock toe-in on the Kraton 6S?
The factory toe-in setting on both the Kraton 6S BLX and EXB is approximately 2 to 3 degrees. This is a compromise setting designed for general bashing. Most drivers benefit from adjusting this based on their specific terrain and driving style.
How do I increase toe-in on the Kraton 6S?
Lengthen the rear camber links by rotating the turnbuckle rod. Loosen the set screws first, then turn the rod to extend it. Each full turn adds roughly 1mm of length, which translates to about 0.5 degrees of additional toe-in. Adjust both sides equally.
Why does my Kraton fishtail at high speed?
Fishtailing typically indicates insufficient rear toe-in or worn rear tires. The rear end lacks the lateral grip needed to stay planted. Increase toe-in by 1 to 2 degrees and check tire condition. Also verify that both rear camber links are the same length.
Does toe-in affect top speed on the Kraton?
Yes, higher toe-in creates more tire scrub, which adds rolling resistance and slightly reduces top speed. The effect is minor, typically 1 to 2 mph difference between 2 degrees and 5 degrees of toe-in. Stability gains usually outweigh the small speed loss.
Should EXB and BLX use the same toe-in settings?
Not necessarily. The EXB’s stiffer suspension maintains geometry more consistently, so it can often run 0.5 to 1 degree less toe-in than the BLX for equivalent stability. Start with the same settings and adjust based on how each truck feels.
How often should I check toe-in settings?
Check toe-in after any significant crash, especially side impacts that could bend suspension components. Otherwise, a monthly check is sufficient for regular bashers. Turnbuckles can loosen over time from vibration, gradually changing your settings.
Can wrong toe-in damage my Kraton?
Incorrect toe-in won’t directly damage the truck, but it causes accelerated tire wear and can lead to crashes from unpredictable handling. Extreme toe-out, where the rear wheels point outward, is particularly dangerous and should be corrected immediately.
Final Verdict
Kraton 6S suspension tuning toe-in adjustment is one of the most impactful changes you can make to your truck’s handling, and it costs nothing but time. The difference between a wandering, unpredictable Kraton and a planted, confidence-inspiring one often comes down to a few degrees of rear toe geometry.
For most bashers running mixed terrain in 2026, we recommend starting at 3.5 degrees of rear toe-in. This provides excellent stability for high-speed runs and jump landings while maintaining enough agility for technical driving. From there, adjust based on your specific conditions: more toe-in for loose surfaces and big air, less for pavement and speed runs.
The EXB’s upgraded suspension components make tuning more predictable and consistent. If you’re serious about dialing in your handling, the EXB’s finer-thread turnbuckles and reinforced shock towers are worth the investment. The BLX is perfectly capable, but it requires more attention to component condition and may benefit from aluminum shock tower upgrades.
Don’t forget that toe-in is just one piece of the handling puzzle. Shock oil weight, spring rates, differential setup, and even battery placement all interact with your toe settings. Change one variable at a time, test thoroughly, and document what works. Over time, you’ll develop a setup that matches your driving style perfectly.
The Kraton 6S is an incredibly capable platform out of the box. With proper suspension tuning, it becomes something special: a truck that does exactly what you ask, when you ask it. Take the time to understand and adjust your toe-in settings, and you’ll be rewarded with handling that makes every run more enjoyable.
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