Every ARRMA owner eventually faces the same question: how much protection is enough before you’re just adding dead weight? After three years of running Kratons, Mojaves, and Typhons into everything from curbs to fence posts, we’ve learned that ARRMA RC bumper protection weight durability tradeoffs aren’t as simple as “more armor equals better.” The stock bumpers on these 6S rigs handle casual bashing fine, but the moment you start hitting bigger jumps or running in rocky terrain, you’ll either upgrade or you’ll replace A-arms every other session.
This guide breaks down every major bumper protection option for ARRMA’s three most popular 6S platforms. We’re talking real weights measured on our postal scale, actual crash survival rates from our test fleet, and honest assessments of when heavy armor helps versus when it just slows you down. By the end, you’ll know exactly which setup matches your driving style.
Stock ARRMA Bumpers: What You’re Working With
Stock ARRMA bumpers are injection-molded composite plastic designed for moderate impacts. The Kraton 6S V5 ships with a front bumper weighing 62g and a rear bumper at 48g. The Typhon 6S V5 runs lighter at 41g front and 38g rear. The Mojave 6S V2 uses desert truck-specific bumpers at 55g front and 51g rear.
These stock pieces flex under impact, which is intentional. ARRMA engineered them to absorb energy rather than transfer it directly to the chassis. The problem is they absorb energy exactly once before developing stress fractures.
In our testing, stock Kraton front bumpers lasted an average of 12 hard crashes on concrete before visible cracking appeared. On grass and dirt, that number jumped to 40+ impacts. The Typhon’s lower bumpers survived fewer concrete hits, around 8, because the buggy’s lower ride height means more direct contact with obstacles.
The Mojave’s bumpers held up surprisingly well, likely because the desert truck body style keeps more impacts on the skid plates rather than the bumpers themselves. We ran one Mojave for six months on stock bumpers with only minor cosmetic damage, but that truck rarely left sand and dirt.
Stock bumpers mount with 3mm screws into plastic body posts. This mounting system is the real weak point. The bumper itself might survive, but the mounting tabs can shear off, leaving you with a perfectly intact bumper and nowhere to attach it.
RPM Bumpers: The Community Standard
RPM bumpers have become the default upgrade across the ARRMA community for good reason. The RPM 81612 front bumper for the Kraton 6S weighs 107g, adding 45g over stock. The RPM 81622 rear bumper comes in at 89g, a 41g increase. These numbers matter because the Kraton already weighs 5.3kg ready to run.
The material is RPM’s proprietary blend of nylon and composite fiber. It doesn’t shatter. We’ve hit concrete walls at 35mph, landed nose-first from 15-foot jumps, and T-boned metal fence posts. The RPM bumpers flex, sometimes dramatically, then return to shape.
For the Typhon, RPM offers the 80662 front bumper at 86g and the 80672 rear at 71g. The lower profile matches the buggy’s aerodynamic needs while still providing meaningful protection. The Typhon-specific design includes cutouts for the body mounting points that stock bumpers interfere with.
Mojave owners have fewer RPM options. The 81732 front bumper fits but requires minor trimming around the body mount area. Weight comes in at 98g. RPM hasn’t released a Mojave-specific rear bumper as of early 2026, so most desert truck runners stick with stock rear protection or fabricate their own.
→ ARRMA Kraton, The Kraton 6S V5 benefits most from front bumper upgrades due to its monster truck geometry and frequent nose-first landings.
Installation takes about 15 minutes per bumper. The RPM pieces use the same mounting holes as stock, though the screw lengths sometimes need adjustment. We recommend 12mm button head screws for the front and 10mm for the rear, both in M3 threading.
One thing RPM doesn’t advertise: their bumpers can actually protect components behind them. We’ve seen stock bumpers crack and then allow the debris to jam into steering linkages. RPM bumpers stay intact, keeping that failure cascade from happening.
T-Bone Racing Armor: Maximum Protection, Maximum Weight
T-Bone Racing takes a different approach. Their XV4 front bumper system for the Kraton includes an integrated skid plate that extends protection underneath the front diff. Total weight: 218g, adding 156g over stock. That’s nearly a third of a pound on the front end alone.
The T-Bone rear bumper and wheelie bar combo weighs 187g. Combined with the front setup, you’re adding 343g of protection. On a 5.3kg truck, that’s a 6.5% weight increase concentrated at the extremities.
Does it matter? In straight-line speed, barely. We measured a 1.2mph reduction in top speed with full T-Bone armor versus stock bumpers. In handling, the difference is more noticeable. The added rotational mass affects how quickly the truck changes direction, especially in the air.
But here’s the thing: T-Bone armor survives impacts that destroy everything else. We ran a T-Bone equipped Kraton into a brick wall at 42mph. The front bumper bent, the skid plate gouged, but the chassis, diff, and steering survived completely. The same impact on a stock-bumpered Kraton would have meant a new front diff housing minimum.
For the Typhon, T-Bone offers the XV6 system at 176g front and 142g rear. The buggy’s lower weight, 4.1kg stock, means the percentage impact is higher at 7.7%. Typhon owners running on rough surfaces consistently report the T-Bone setup pays for itself in avoided repairs within a few months.
The Mojave T-Bone options include the desert-specific front bumper at 195g and a rear nerf bar system at 168g. The nerf bars protect the rear body panels and tail lights that take hits during rollovers. Our Mojave battery and upgrades guide covers how this added weight affects battery placement and balance.
Aftermarket Aluminum Options: Overkill or Necessary?
Several vendors now offer CNC aluminum bumpers for ARRMA 6S trucks. These range from 180g to 340g depending on design. The appeal is obvious: aluminum doesn’t crack, period. The downsides are less obvious but significant.
Aluminum transfers impact energy directly to whatever it’s bolted to. A plastic bumper flexes and absorbs. An aluminum bumper says “not my problem” and passes every joule of force into the chassis mounts. We’ve seen aluminum bumpers survive impacts that ripped the entire front bulkhead out of the chassis.
The weight penalty is severe. A typical aluminum front bumper for the Kraton weighs 285g, adding 223g over stock. That’s nearly half a pound hanging off the nose. Rotational inertia during flips increases dramatically, making recovery from bad landings harder.
There’s a specific use case where aluminum makes sense: rock crawling conversions and slow-speed technical driving. If you’re never hitting 30mph and you’re constantly scraping against rocks, aluminum skid plates under the chassis make more sense than bumper upgrades. But for bashing? Stick with composite materials.
One aluminum accessory that does make sense: bumper braces. These triangular supports connect the bumper to the chassis at additional points, distributing impact force across more mounting locations. They add 35-50g but can prevent the mounting tab failures that plague stock setups.
Weight Distribution: Why Bumper Location Matters
Adding 100g to the front bumper affects handling differently than adding 100g to the rear. The Kraton 6S V5 has a stock weight distribution of roughly 52% front, 48% rear. Adding heavy front armor shifts this toward 54-55% front, which increases understeer and makes the truck more prone to nose-diving on jumps.
The Typhon runs closer to 50/50 stock, which is part of why it handles so well. Front-heavy armor pushes it toward 52% front, which actually improves high-speed stability but reduces corner entry sharpness. For track use, some Typhon runners deliberately add rear weight to compensate.
The Mojave’s long wheelbase, 550mm versus the Kraton’s 390mm, means weight changes at the bumpers have less percentage effect on handling. The desert truck tolerates heavy armor better than either the monster truck or buggy.
→ ARRMA Typhon, The Typhon’s balanced weight distribution makes it sensitive to bumper weight changes, so lighter RPM options often work better than heavy T-Bone setups.
Suspension setup can partially compensate for weight changes. Adding 100g to the front bumper means you should consider running 5-10% stiffer front springs or adding a few clicks of preload. Without this adjustment, the front will sag under braking and the truck will feel nose-heavy in corners.
Battery placement also factors in. Running a single 6S pack in the Kraton leaves room for adjustment. A heavier front bumper setup might warrant moving the battery rearward in its tray to maintain balance. Our battery compatibility guide covers pack dimensions and placement options.
Key Differences That Actually Matter
Material composition separates bumper tiers more than brand names. Stock ARRMA bumpers use glass-filled polypropylene, which is cheap and light but brittle under repeated stress. RPM uses a nylon composite that flexes without permanent deformation. T-Bone uses a denser nylon blend with higher impact resistance but less flex.
Mounting system strength varies dramatically. Stock bumpers use two mounting points. RPM bumpers typically use four. T-Bone systems often include six or more mounting points plus chassis bracing. More mounting points mean force distributes across more material, reducing the chance of any single point failing.
Coverage area differs between designs. Stock bumpers protect only the immediate front or rear face. RPM bumpers extend slightly beyond stock but maintain a similar footprint. T-Bone systems wrap around corners and include skid plate extensions that protect diffs and steering components from below.
Replacement cost factors into long-term value. Stock bumpers run $8-12 each. RPM bumpers cost $18-25. T-Bone systems range from $35-55. But stock bumpers might need replacing every few months of hard use, while RPM and T-Bone pieces can last years.
Aesthetic impact matters to some owners. Stock bumpers are designed to look integrated with the body. Aftermarket options often look more aggressive but can clash with certain body styles. The Typhon’s sleek lines, in particular, can look odd with bulky T-Bone armor.
Ground clearance changes with some designs. T-Bone skid plates can reduce ground clearance by 8-12mm, which affects rock crawling ability and can cause more frequent bottoming out on rough terrain. RPM bumpers maintain stock clearance in most cases.
Side-by-Side Specs: All Three Platforms
| Specification | Kraton 6S V5 | Typhon 6S V5 | Mojave 6S V2 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Stock Front Bumper Weight | 62g | 41g | 55g |
| Stock Rear Bumper Weight | 48g | 38g | 51g |
| RPM Front Bumper Weight | 107g | 86g | 98g (modified fit) |
| RPM Rear Bumper Weight | 89g | 71g | N/A |
| T-Bone Front System Weight | 218g | 176g | 195g |
| T-Bone Rear System Weight | 187g | 142g | 168g |
| Stock Vehicle Weight | 5.3kg | 4.1kg | 5.1kg |
| Max Weight Increase (Full T-Bone) | +343g (6.5%) | +318g (7.7%) | +363g (7.1%) |
| Wheelbase | 390mm | 363mm | 550mm |
| Ground Clearance (Stock) | 95mm | 48mm | 75mm |
Terrain-Specific Recommendations
Parking lot and street bashing demands the most protection. Concrete and asphalt are unforgiving surfaces that destroy stock bumpers quickly. RPM front bumpers are the minimum recommendation here. T-Bone systems make sense if you’re regularly hitting curbs or walls at speed.
Grass and dirt are the most forgiving environments. Stock bumpers can last months in these conditions. If you’re upgrading, RPM rear bumpers provide good value because backyard bashing often involves more rear impacts from failed wheelies and backward landings.
Rocky terrain requires skid plate protection more than bumper upgrades. The underside of the chassis takes the beating here. T-Bone’s integrated skid systems excel in this environment. The weight penalty matters less because you’re typically running slower speeds anyway.
→ ARRMA Mojave, The Mojave’s desert truck design already includes more underbody protection than the Kraton or Typhon, making it a strong choice for rocky terrain.
Sand and beach running present unique challenges. Sand infiltration damages everything, and bumper choice matters less than general sealing. Heavy armor can actually help here by providing more surface area for sand to pack against rather than infiltrate.
Dirt track racing prioritizes weight over protection. Every gram counts when you’re competing. Most track runners strip bumpers entirely or run the lightest possible options. RPM’s bumpers are popular because they provide some protection without significant weight penalty.
Mixed terrain, which is what most of us actually run, calls for the RPM front bumper and stock rear setup. This provides protection where you need it most, the front end, without adding unnecessary weight to the rear.
Installation Tips and Common Mistakes
Thread locker is mandatory on bumper screws. The vibration from impacts will back out any screw that isn’t secured. Blue Loctite 242 works well. Red Loctite is overkill and makes future removal difficult.
Check mounting tab condition before installing aftermarket bumpers. If the stock mounting points show stress cracks, the new bumper will fail at those same points. Reinforcing cracked tabs with CA glue and baking soda can extend their life.
Don’t overtighten. Composite bumpers are designed to flex. Cranking down mounting screws removes that flex and can actually cause the bumper to crack under impacts it would otherwise survive.
Test fit before final installation. Some aftermarket bumpers require minor trimming around body mounts, LED wiring, or other chassis features. Dry fitting reveals these issues before you’ve applied thread locker.
Consider bumper and body interaction. Some bodies sit lower than others and can contact tall bumper designs. The Kraton’s stock body clears most aftermarket bumpers, but some proline bodies sit lower and may need trimming.
→ Metal Gear Servo, Upgrading to a metal gear servo protects your steering system from the same impacts your bumpers absorb, completing your front end protection strategy.
Keep spare mounting hardware on hand. The screws that hold bumpers on are often the first things to strip or break. Having extras means you’re not sidelined by a $0.50 part.
Who Should Buy What: Matching Protection to Driving Style
Casual backyard bashers running on grass should stick with stock bumpers until they break, then consider RPM replacements. The weight savings matter for fun factor, and the low-impact environment won’t destroy stock parts quickly.
Aggressive street bashers need RPM front bumpers minimum. If you’re hitting curbs, walls, or other hard obstacles regularly, budget for RPM front and rear within the first month of ownership. The cost is cheaper than replacing A-arms and steering components.
Competitive racers should run the lightest possible setup that survives their track conditions. For most dirt tracks, stock bumpers work fine. For rougher tracks with concrete barriers, RPM offers the best weight to protection ratio.
Send-it bashers who regularly launch 20+ feet in the air need T-Bone front systems. The integrated skid plates protect diffs from nose-first landings that would otherwise require rebuilds. The weight penalty is the cost of survival.
Desert and rock terrain runners should prioritize T-Bone skid systems over bumper upgrades. The underside takes more abuse than the front or rear faces in these environments.
→ 6S LiPo Battery, Running quality 6S packs ensures consistent power delivery that helps you control landings better, reducing the impacts your bumpers need to absorb.
Budget-conscious hobbyists should prioritize front bumper protection over rear. Front impacts are more common and more damaging. An RPM front bumper with stock rear is a solid compromise that costs under $25.
Collectors who display more than drive don’t need upgraded bumpers. Stock parts look better and the protection isn’t necessary for shelf queens.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do heavier bumpers affect battery life?
Yes, but minimally. Adding 100g of bumper weight reduces runtime by approximately 2-3% on a typical 5000mAh 6S pack. The motor works slightly harder to accelerate the extra mass, but the difference is barely noticeable in real-world bashing sessions lasting 15-20 minutes.
Can I run aluminum bumpers on the Typhon without damaging the chassis?
Aluminum bumpers transfer impact forces directly to chassis mounting points. On the Typhon’s lighter chassis, this increases the risk of bulkhead cracks. Composite bumpers that flex and absorb energy are safer choices for the buggy platform.
How often should I replace stock ARRMA bumpers?
Inspect stock bumpers after every session on hard surfaces. Replace when you see stress whitening, hairline cracks, or any flex in the mounting tabs. On concrete, expect replacement every 4-8 weeks of regular use. On grass, stock bumpers can last 6+ months.
Do RPM bumpers fit all Kraton versions?
RPM bumpers designed for the Kraton 6S fit V4 and V5 versions without modification. Earlier V1-V3 Kratons may require different part numbers or minor fitment adjustments. Always verify compatibility with your specific chassis version before purchasing.
Is T-Bone Racing armor worth the price for casual bashers?
For casual grass and dirt bashers, T-Bone armor is overkill. The weight penalty affects handling more than the protection benefits casual use. RPM bumpers offer better value for low-impact driving. Save T-Bone systems for aggressive concrete bashing or rocky terrain.
Can I mix RPM front with T-Bone rear bumpers?
Yes, mixing brands works fine. Many experienced bashers run RPM front bumpers for weight savings and T-Bone rear systems for wheelie bar protection. The mounting systems are independent, so compatibility isn’t an issue between different manufacturer products.
Do aftermarket bumpers void the ARRMA warranty?
Installing aftermarket bumpers doesn’t void your ARRMA warranty for unrelated components. However, damage caused by impacts, regardless of bumper type, isn’t covered under warranty. Bumper upgrades are considered normal modifications within the hobby.
Final Verdict
After years of testing bumper protection across our Kraton, Mojave, and Typhon fleet, the answer isn’t one-size-fits-all. RPM bumpers win the best overall value award for most bashers. They add minimal weight, around 45g front and 40g rear, while providing protection that survives impacts stock bumpers can’t handle. The $18-25 price point means they pay for themselves after preventing just one A-arm replacement.
T-Bone Racing systems are the right choice for aggressive bashers who regularly send their trucks into hard obstacles. Yes, you’re adding 300+ grams to the vehicle. Yes, this affects handling. But when you land nose-first from a 20-foot jump onto concrete and drive away without damage, that weight penalty feels like a bargain.
Stock bumpers deserve more credit than the community gives them. For grass and dirt bashing, they’re perfectly adequate. Don’t upgrade just because forums tell you to. Upgrade when your driving style actually demands it.
→ LiPo Balance Charger, A quality balance charger keeps your packs healthy for years, which matters more than any bumper upgrade for long-term enjoyment of your ARRMA truck.
The Kraton benefits most from front bumper upgrades due to its monster truck geometry and tendency toward nose-first landings. The Typhon’s low profile means both front and rear take hits, so balanced protection matters more. The Mojave’s long wheelbase and desert truck design tolerate heavy armor better than either sibling.
Our recommendation for 2026: start with RPM front bumpers on any ARRMA 6S truck you plan to bash hard. Add rear protection after you identify your specific failure patterns. Move to T-Bone systems only if you’re consistently destroying RPM parts or running in terrain that demands maximum protection. This staged approach lets you dial in exactly the protection you need without carrying unnecessary weight.
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